Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Sipi Falls…gorgeous!

Living in Kampala can wear on a person. Granted, there are some great things about the city, including being close to friends & colleagues, enjoying numerous things to do, having opportunities to help, etc. But 48 hours after arriving back, I had already experienced several of the frustrations that can come with major cities in the underdeveloped world and was looking forward to getting out into the rural areas of the country again. Luckily, Justin List, a good friend of mine over here (originally from Chicago), told me about a trip to Sipi Falls in eastern Uganda and invited me to come along. Since I had only been back in the country for 48 hours at that point, I didn’t have too much planned for the weekend. I rearranged the one meeting I had scheduled and decided on Friday afternoon to go along for the ride.

We left Saturday morning at 8:30 on the Post Bus. Apparently the Ugandan postal service realized they could make a little extra money by using old charter buses to haul people and mail around the country. Although the bus makes frequent stops, it is a very cheap - and fairly clean - way to travel around the country.

Location of Sipi Falls in relation to Kampala

After about 7 ½ hours, we arrived in Mbale, the major city in eastern Uganda, where we were to meet Sarah (a friend from Wisconsin) who had gone ahead of us a few days earlier. There was a 15 minute window when we were out of the Post Bus and waiting for our friend with the next vehicle to continue on our way to Sipi Falls. Naturally, during this window is when it started to rain.

Supposedly January is the peak of dry season in Uganda, but apparently Mother Nature missed the memo this year. Since I came back on January 21, it has rained almost every day. Most of the storms had been drizzle and light rain up to this point. Not this one.

It started with a light rain, and Justin, Sheena (a friend from Cincinnati), and I moved under a few small trees for added protection as I opened up my umbrella. In hindsight, we should have paid more attention to all of the Ugandans across the street that had moved under a building overhang that provided sturdier shelter. After a couple minutes, the rain picked up. We debated whether we should cross the street to the building, but decided that Sarah would be there soon enough with the vehicle and that we could just wait. Bad choice. The rain continued to get stronger…and stronger…until we were in the middle of a torrential downpour. Then the winds picked up, which made it seem like it was raining horizontally and, to top it all off, it started to hail. For what seemed like 20-30 minutes (but was probably only about 5 minutes in reality), the three of us huddled together, using our two umbrellas to protect us from the hail as we battled to keep the wind from ripping them apart. Then, as quickly as it started, the rain stopped, and we were left standing there, absolutely drenched.

The Ugandans across the street thoroughly enjoyed the show, and I can’t blame them. I’m sure the three of us looked ridiculous during the whole episode and we all agreed that there wasn’t much else could do besides laugh at ourselves along with them. About five minutes later, Sarah pulled up in the taxi, and couldn’t help but laugh too, since she had taken the wiser route and sought shelter when the storm came. As we drove through Mbale, we saw that it had been a fairly serious storm. A couple roofs had been blown off of buildings (one landed on a car), and some plastic calling booths had been blown over.

Thankfully, the rest of the weekend went up from there. We arrived at the Crow’s Nest, a nice budget-level lodge in Sipi Falls, about an hour later and were greeted by some absolutely stunning views. The next two days at Sipi Falls were highlighted by a breathtaking 5 hour hike that took us to three separate waterfalls, with drops ranging from 78 to 100 meters; through several banana and coffee fields; and up and down a few valleys. Additionally, we spent both evenings on a peak near the Crow’s Nest where we watched the sun set over the plateau below us. The rest of the time was filled with the four of us catching up, meeting a 5th friend who came on the second day, a little reading/research, and relaxing in general.

On Monday we checked out and went back to Mbale and then further south to Tororo, where the 5th one of us, Patrick (a med student from UCSF), was based. We checked out his worksite during the day, ate some delicious roasted pork that evening, and then crashed at his place that night. Nothing too crazy that day besides an interesting mutatu ride from Mbale to Tororo where I was sandwiched in the back seat between the side of the van and a woman very publicly breast-feeding her child (a common occurrence over here). My backpack was in the very back of the vehicle so I kept turning my head to make sure the door didn’t fly open and let it fall out (the door, naturally, was tied closed using only a piece of twine). I realized when the ride was almost over that it probably looked like I was constantly looking at the woman…hopefully she knew what I was actually looking at! Oops!


Today we got up early and jumped on a bus headed back toward Kampala. This one was a little bit quicker than the Post Bus and, for the first time since I came to Uganda, had seat belts for us to wear…a very welcome addition for the travels! I arrived back in Kampala a little before noon and then went straight to the office instead of taking a couple hours to make my way home and back into town again. My backpacking/hiking clothes are a little departure from my usual slacks and dress shirt, but I think the others in the office understood!

Now it’s time to get back to work. My classes supposedly start next Monday (I’m not going to hold my breath), and I just got some more equipment for my research. Here we go with another Makerere semester!

Cheers!
-Chris

P.S. I've included a couple pictures from the weekend here, but couldn't fit all of them. I've posted all of my shots from the weekend on my Picasa sharing site - http://picasaweb.google.com/cwdeal/SipiFalls#

Not a bad view to start off the morning


Posing with one of the smaller falls


The base of the main falls...more shades of green than I had ever seen before!


Enjoying the sunset with Justin & Sheena


Boda-boda's were originally bicycle taxis, and a few of the bicycle variety are still around Ugandan cities. The four of us (Justin, Sheena, and me in this picture) decided to take the "greener" route while we were in Tororo...and give the drivers quite a workout!

Monday, January 19, 2009

Home for the holidays

I know it’s cliché, but I’ll say it anyway; there really is no place like home for the holidays. I just finished up a fantastic 5 week stint back in Iowa and am now sitting in the Newark airport, in the middle of a seven hour layover, thinking about the past few weeks as I head back to Kampala.

When I left Uganda back on December 10, I was definitely looking forward to a break. The frustrations from dealing with a lack of infrastructure, trying to make progress in a society where development often barely inches along, and being so far from home had accumulated over my first 4 months in the country, and I was ready for some time off. The vacation gave me some good time to reflect on my first few months in the country and to think about what I want to accomplish in the upcoming months. As I now look forward to my return, I feel recharged and ready for classes and work to resume.

As I reflect on the past five weeks, I feel like I was able to make some good progress on a few of my projects while also spending some quality time with friends and family. However, before I get into that, there is one other item I should probably cover first…

I was originally scheduled to fly back to Uganda on January 5. However, during my last week of final exams in December, I found out that the next semester wouldn’t be starting until early February. I decided to prolong my stay in the States by a couple weeks, but I opted to not share that information with anyone other than my parents. I kept the flight change a secret because I saw a perfect opportunity to use it in the coordination of a surprise for Tracy. So, with a little help from her family and my parents, I faked leaving on January 5 (I know, a little cruel, but the ends justified the means). Two days later, with a little more help from family and some friends (thank you again, Matt Schutt & Carole Custer!), I surprised Tracy with a scheme that involved having Schutt pick her up from school, chauffeur her around Ames, and ultimately bring her to the Campanile where I surprised her, with ring in hand (the full story is a little more complex; shoot me an email if you’d like all of the details). Thankfully, that was enough for her to forgive me for pretending to leave the country, and she said yes! So, I am now returning to Uganda as an engaged man!

That, obviously, was the highlight of my return home. However, I did manage to make some progress on a few other projects. I am trying to bring together a few Rotary clubs to start a mosquito nets project for the Kamuli schools that I visited back in August, and I spent a good amount of time with meetings, presentations, and putting together proposals for that project. Beyond that, I was able to visit Tracy’s classroom a couple times and talk to her students about life in Uganda and their pen pals in Kamuli. I also did some work on my thesis research and took care of some of the boring things that had to get done while I was in the country (taxes, doctor’s appointments, dentist, background checks for teaching, etc.). I was able to see many friends at the Jorgensen-Connolly wedding and have a lot of fun at family Christmas get-togethers. And my mom managed to get me to re-gain any weight that I had lost while in Africa, and then some. Overall, it was a fantastic trip home!

Now I head back to work in Uganda. I’ll have a couple weeks before classes technically start (and probably a couple more weeks after that before professors actually start teaching) that I’ll use for catching up on research and re-adjusting to life in Uganda. I’ve got a lot to cover, and I know that my 5 months are going to fly by, so I better get started right away!

Anyway, I’ll end there with my vacation update. I still have five hours before my flight leaves for Amsterdam, so maybe I’ll put together another post or two about some fun stories that I didn’t get around to covering in December.

Cheers!
Chris



Returning to the car after the big surprise. I had been standing outside for 30 minutes at this point and could no longer feel fingers or toes...still happy though! :)


I flew out of Eppley Airfield in Omaha at 6:45 am today, so I had my parents drop me off the night before and slept in the airport. Here's my makeshift bed that was good for nearly 5 hours of sleep.