As I walk around Kampala, I stick out. Badly. On average, out of the hundreds of people I see each day, probably 3-5 of them are not black. The ratio is even lower when I’m in the rural areas of Uganda.
Being the minority automatically means that I get a little more attention – normally through a second glance – than everyone else on the streets. The reactions that I get from these second glances vary widely. Some – the children mostly – are curious and excited. Oftentimes children will just stand there and wave, hoping for a smile or some sign of recognition from the strange person walking down the street. Adults, on the other hand, have a wide range of responses. Indifference. Anger. Curiosity. A shrewd confidence (mainly boda boda drivers trying to rip me off). Occasionally even mocking. Mostly, though, it’s just friendly curiosity.
It has taken me awhile to realize this, however, because immediately upon entering Kampala I went into my big city mindset, assuming that everyone was trying to take advantage of me. It’s my defense mechanism so I don’t get ripped off – too badly – by drivers or retailers and so I hopefully can avoid getting pick-pocketed. However, as I have become more comfortable over here, I have reverted to some of my Midwestern tendencies. I’m happy I did, because it has allowed me to find out that a simple smile and “hello” works just as well over here as it did when walking around the streets of small-town Iowa.
I think the most interesting reactions I get are from the older children, teenagers who are still forming their opinions about foreigners and the outside world. Sometimes it’s easy to tell that they’ve been influenced by parents or elders, and they have the same negative reactions as some of the older faces I see. Most of the time, though, our eyes will meet and they will have no reaction, instead waiting to judge my reaction. At first, as part of my defensive mindset, I would just continue walking. But, I’ve realized that a smile and hello works just as well for a 15 year old as a 50 year old. They are just as curious as anyone else, wondering what this Muzungu is doing walking through the streets of Kampala.
The irony is that in Africa, as the minority, I am assumed to be rich. This, of course, is the opposite of the United States where minorities in small towns are stereotyped as criminals or homeless. In both situations, the common assumption is almost always incorrect.
At a surface level, I am strikingly different from everyone here. My skin is pale. I burn…easily. I grew up with everything I ever needed and then some. But, when you go a little deeper, there isn’t that much of a difference. We all want to live without fear. We all want a secure future. We all want the best for our families. The list goes on. Sure, there are cultural differences, but overall, we’re much more alike than we are different. It just takes a little role reversal to realize how true that statement really is.
Cheers!
Chris
(Side note: Sorry for the double-post in the same day. I've actually had this one written for awhile - I've just been unable to get it posted until now)
Pic: A few friends in Kamuli pose for a picture
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